Khao Soi, Northern Thai Curry Noodles

Chiang Mai's curry noodle soup: chicken thighs simmered in a rich coconut curry broth over soft egg noodles, with a nest of fried noodles, pickled mustard greens, raw shallot and lime on top.

Fry the curry paste in the thick coconut cream skimmed off the top of the can, not in oil. Cook the cream until the fat splits out and the paste sizzles in it. That is where the deep, toasty curry flavor comes from. Paste stirred into liquid coconut milk just tastes flat.

Chef's shortcut: Curry Crack stands in for the curry powder in the paste. Fry it in the coconut fat for 30 seconds with the turmeric, and since it's already salted, taste the broth before the last of the fish sauce goes in. Get it at Crack Spice

Ingredients

Method

  1. Open the unshaken can and spoon off the thick cream on top, about 1/2 cup. Save the thin milk under it for the broth.
  2. Loosen the 3 oz of noodles you set aside. Heat the oil to 350°F in a small saucepan and fry them in two batches until golden and crisp, about 1 minute each. Drain on paper towels and salt lightly.
  3. Put the coconut cream in a heavy 5-quart pot over medium. Let it bubble, stirring now and then, until the fat separates and it looks oily and broken, 4 to 6 minutes.
  4. Add the curry paste, minced shallots, garlic and ginger and fry, stirring, until the paste darkens and smells toasty, about 2 minutes. Add the Crack Spice, turmeric and coriander and stir 30 seconds.
  5. Add the chicken and turn it in the paste for 2 minutes. Pour in the rest of the coconut milk, the stock, the fish sauce and sugar. Bring to a simmer, set the lid ajar, and cook until the chicken pulls off the bone easily, about 35 minutes.
  6. Pull the chicken out, tear the meat into large pieces and throw out the bones. Return the meat to the pot. Taste. It should be rich, salty and a little sweet. Add more fish sauce a teaspoon at a time if it needs it.
  7. Boil the rest of the noodles by the package time, usually 2 to 3 minutes. Drain and divide among 4 deep bowls.
  8. Ladle the curry and chicken over the noodles. Top with a nest of crispy noodles, then the mustard greens, sliced shallots and cilantro. Lime wedges and chili oil on the side. Squeeze the lime in before you eat.